| Uganda is a beautiful country with an | | | | fish "...let out a strangled squawk and I |
| impressive people. This is one of my | | | | found myself staring at the hog-sized back of |
| favourite countries in all of Africa. The | | | | a huge fish protruding above the water at the |
| people of Uganda have survived the troubles | | | | rock's edge - a 100kg fish with scales the |
| of 1967-86 period and emerged standing | | | | size of tennis balls. Swimming next to it was |
| upright and wearing a smile. In that short | | | | a smaller one, a 'midget' of a mere 40kg or |
| period, the country suffered under the | | | | so”. This adventure is described by the |
| caprice of two despicable despots. One was | | | | prodigiously experienced Charles Norman as |
| the indisputably insane Idi Amin and the | | | | "...the most exciting morning's fishing that |
| other, the arguably insane Milton Obote.This | | | | I have ever known." Other game fish found in |
| is now history – a testament to the | | | | the Nile include Barbel, electric Catfish and |
| dignity and endurance of this people. The | | | | Tiger fish.The game you come across in the |
| transformation of the country in the period | | | | park includes elephant, hartebeest, leopard, |
| since normalcy returned is nothing short of | | | | lion, giraffe, buffalo, hippo, crocodiles and |
| astounding. And it shows in the faces of the | | | | many species of antelopes. Upstream of the |
| people you meet. That the graceful beauties | | | | Murchison Falls are the Karuma Falls, where |
| of Uganda have not received the recognition | | | | the Nile cascades over 23 kilometres of |
| they deserve in international beauty pageants | | | | rapids. Here you have some of the most |
| is for me incontrovertible proof that most of | | | | exciting white water in Africa. Murchison |
| these events are really fixed.Winston | | | | Falls is located 330 km from Kampala.The |
| Churchill was so besotted by the country that | | | | Queen Elizabeth National Park is another |
| he gave it the name that has endured: the | | | | outstanding treasure. It is a UNESCO |
| “Pearl of Africa”. His | | | | designated Biosphere Reserve for Humanity. |
| observations about Uganda remain true today: | | | | The recognition arises from the tropical |
| "The scenery is different, the vegetation is | | | | forest, green meadows, savannah and swamps |
| different, the climate is different, and, | | | | that constitute the park. In terms of |
| most of all, the people are different from | | | | wildlife, you find elephant, buffalo, hippos, |
| anything elsewhere ...in the whole range of | | | | baboons, chimpanzees and over 600 species of |
| Africa".Travelers to Uganda are drawn by its | | | | birds. The park occupies 2,000 sq km and is |
| stunning landscape - green rolling hills, | | | | situated 440 km from Kampala. At the northern |
| snowcapped mountains, rainforests, majestic | | | | end of the Queen Elizabeth, you find Kibale. |
| rivers and massive lakes. There are also a | | | | This park has a unique forest habitat and has |
| number of outstanding national parks for your | | | | an excellent diversity of animal and plant |
| safari encounter with the wildlife for which | | | | life. It is at Kibale that you find the |
| Africa is renowned. Unfortunately, I have to | | | | highest number of primate species in Uganda, |
| advise you to skip Kidepo Valley -a | | | | and one of the highest primate densities and |
| well-resourced park in the north, as it is | | | | diversities in the world.Traveling from |
| not considered safe. The country’s edge | | | | Kampala to the Queen Elizabeth or Bwindi, |
| as a worthwhile destination is further | | | | most visitors break at Lake Mburo National |
| enhanced by its endowments for white water | | | | Park. The park is 230 km west of Kampala |
| rafting and sport fishing. Tour operators | | | | along the Mbarara road and is the most |
| have on offer a variety of Uganda safari and | | | | accessible in the country. It is a very |
| tour packages.It is in Uganda that you find | | | | attractive park of rolling hills, open grassy |
| the highest number of primate species | | | | valleys, interspersed with thickets, |
| anywhere in the world. Opportunities for | | | | woodlands and rich wetlands. In addition to |
| tracking rare mountain gorillas and | | | | viewing game including zebra, cape buffalo |
| chimpanzees are unrivalled elsewhere. The | | | | and eland, you can relax by taking a boat |
| primate conservation efforts the country has | | | | trip on Lake Mburo.The fairly flat terrain of |
| followed are bearing fruit. A survey carried | | | | the country is interrupted to the west by the |
| out by the Wildlife Conservation Society and | | | | Rwenzori Mountains and to the east by Mount |
| the Jane Goodall Institute in collaboration | | | | Elgon. Rwenzori, otherwise known as |
| with the Uganda government, revealed that | | | | "Mountains of the Moon" has the third highest |
| there were 4,950 chimpanzees in the country | | | | peak in Africa after Mount Kenya and |
| in 2003. Previously, scientists guess for | | | | Kilimanjaro. The Rwenzori is part of the |
| this number was between 3000 and 4000, but | | | | national park of the same name and contains 6 |
| nobody knew for sure. The chimp is our closet | | | | snow-capped peaks. You can hike the trails of |
| living relative, sharing 98% of our genes and | | | | this mountain without any special climbing |
| much of our behaviour. Uganda is the best | | | | equipment unless you want to go for the |
| country in the world to view chimpanzees in | | | | peaks. The mist covered mountain range |
| their natural habitat.The best place to see | | | | stretches for about 100 km.Mount Elgon sits |
| the rare mountain gorilla is at the 331 sq. | | | | by the Kenyan border and is the shell of an |
| km Bwindi National Park. This park was | | | | ancient volcano. The main attractions here |
| formerly known as the Impenetrable Forest | | | | are the waterfalls, caves that were once used |
| with good reason. The trees are thick and the | | | | by indigenous people, hot springs, the |
| forest thicker with dense undergrowth, | | | | mountains vegetation, the various peaks, the |
| creepers, bamboos and parasitic plants such | | | | Suam Gorge and the caldera itself. After |
| as mistletoe and orchids. This environment is | | | | millions of years of erosion, the oval shaped |
| the habitat for mountain gorilla’s, | | | | caldera now measures roughly 7 by 8 kms, one |
| chimpanzee, and 8 other species of primate. | | | | of the largest in the world.The traveler with |
| Not less than half the world’s | | | | a sense of history will want to visit the |
| population of an estimated 600 mountain | | | | Source of the Nile at Jinja. Jinja is 60 km |
| gorillas have sanctuary here, making Bwindi | | | | to the north east of Kampala and is easily |
| the base for an important scientific | | | | accessible by road. This is where the White |
| conservation program.Gorilla tracking is | | | | Nile begins, as it exits Lake Victoria on its |
| limited to small groups and the licenses are | | | | 5,600 km journey to the Mediterranean. The |
| issued to ensure minimum disruption to the | | | | source of the Nile was a thousand year old |
| routine of the animals. Tracking gorillas is | | | | mystery that was decisively settled by the |
| an arduous task and you should be prepared | | | | explorer John Speke in 1862.If you are keen |
| for up to 8 hours of hiking. Good physical | | | | about culture, go for the The Kabaka’s |
| condition is a must. You are advised to make | | | | Trail. This is a unique journey through a |
| arrangements 4-12 months prior to the date of | | | | part of Uganda’s rich heritage that has |
| your visit. Bwindi is essentially a rain | | | | been shaped by the region’s kings over |
| forest and it is necessary to bring along a | | | | the years. The Kabaka is the ceremonial king |
| raincoat, walking boots and gloves.In | | | | of the Baganda and his lineage goes way back |
| addition to its star gorillas, Bwindi is host | | | | to the 14th century. The Trail combines a |
| to bush pig, giant forest hog and over 300 | | | | series of cultural sites, all within easy |
| species of birds including rare forest birds. | | | | reach of Kampala. You can easily combine the |
| Others who have found a home in this | | | | Kabaka Trail with your Search of the Nile |
| ecosystem include many types of bats and | | | | excursion to Jinja. The Trail offers much |
| rodents, 14 species of snakes, 27 species of | | | | more than sightseeing and you will learn |
| frogs and toads, 6 chameleon types, 14 | | | | about the hidden and forgotten history of |
| lizards, skinks and geckos and 200 species of | | | | Uganda. You will also experience an authentic |
| butterfly. Bwindi is to the west of the | | | | tribal culture - with traditional dance, |
| country and is 560 km from Kampala.Though not | | | | music, craft making, spiritual healing and |
| as famous for safari as neighboring Kenya and | | | | storytelling.There are international standard |
| Tanzania, Uganda still has some pretty good | | | | hotels in Uganda, especially in the main |
| game sanctuaries. The 3,840 sq. km Murchison | | | | towns of Entebbe, Jinja and Kampala. The |
| Falls National Park is the largest and most | | | | quality is variable in the smaller towns and |
| spectacular of them. Aside from game, it is | | | | rated accommodation is scarce. All of the |
| renowned for its scenic beauty. Rolling | | | | major national parks offer accommodation in |
| savannah, tall grasslands and thick bush | | | | game lodges and tented camps.If you want to |
| woodlands make up the park. But you are | | | | drive around Uganda, you need to show an |
| advised not to miss out the magnificent | | | | international drivers license to hire a |
| waterfalls after which the park is named. The | | | | vehicle. Rental cars in Uganda are available |
| waterfall is formed where the Nile tapers | | | | in Entebbe and Kampala. Roads radiate from |
| from 50 metres to rush through a 7-metre | | | | Kampala and are of varying quality. In the |
| gorge, falling 45 metres in a breath-taking | | | | north of the country the security situation |
| leap. This phenomenon is said to be the most | | | | is still doubtful and so are the roads. Its |
| powerful natural flow of water anywhere on | | | | is a good idea if you are on self drive to |
| Earth.If you are patient, you can catch some | | | | get local advise about the condition the |
| really huge Nile Perch at the foot of the | | | | roads you intend to use.Uganda enjoys a |
| falls. What kind of fish can withstand such a | | | | tropical climate tempered by altitude. The |
| force that exists at the foot of the falls? | | | | hottest period of the year is from December |
| Charles Norman describes his fishing day out | | | | to February when temperature rise to 29 |
| with a companion who on seeing the massive | | | | degrees Celsius. |